It was a hot summer's day and we all desperately needed a swim. We biked down to Matarangi beach in the scorching heat. We got there and ran down to the water, me with my boogie board. As I dived in, I felt the refreshing, cool water surge through me like it was being injected into me.. I swam out and found the spot where the waves foamed. I could see a big wave coming; I flopped down on my board and started kicking. The wave took me upwards and then down, pushing me all the way to the shore.
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